Viva Mexico!
Discover a fiesta of flavors from south-of-the-border cuisine

By Mitchell Clute
Photos by Rita Maas

That fateful day in 1519 when Cortez entered Montezuma's Aztec capital may well mark one of the most important moments in culinary history. At this convergence of Aztec and European palates, the native Mexicans brought to the table a collection of novel ingredients—squash, corn, beans, tomatoes, peanuts, coconut and chocolate, to name a few—while the Spanish contributed continental meats, citrus, cheese, milk, wine, garlic, cinnamon, oregano, black pepper and more. The fusion resulted in a wealth of New World culinary treasures.

This heritage lives on. A careful look at today's authentic Mexican cooking reveals subtle flavors, unique combinations and a reliance on fresh, locally grown ingredients—often the only choice for millions of cooks living in Mexico's rural regions. True Mexican food is fresh and light, with a solid emphasis on vegetables and spices. You wouldn't know it by looking at U.S. restaurant menus, though. Here, Mexican food (we don't usually grace it with the word cuisine) can be heavy, filling and predictable. The primary ingredients—beans, rice, fried meats and flour tortillas—barely hint at the range of flavors found on the Mexican table.

The carnival atmosphere of May 5, Cinco de Mayo—a date set aside to honor Mexico's independence—provides a welcome and appropriate occasion for experiencing the food traditions of this proud country. With signature dishes rooted in a whole-foods approach, including plenty of options for adventurous vegetarians, the emphasis remains on seasonal produce and dried staples, such as rice and beans, prepared in a range of styles. And though Mexican cooking can be simple—in many cases, corn and beans are the main ingredients—it can also be dynamically complex. Celebrate this month with a fiesta in your kitchen, and embrace the adventure of Mexican cuisine.

Border-Style Drunken Beans

Serves 6 / This is a lighter, vegetarian version of a traditional dish favored by the caballeros (cowboys) of northern Mexico. Chipotle peppers provide a smoky flavor that in the original dish is supplied by bacon.

2 tablespoons corn oil
1 white onion, chopped
2 ripe tomatoes, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 cups pinto beans, soaked overnight and drained
1 12-ounce bottle dark beer, such as Negro Modelo
4 cups vegetable stock
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1-2 chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, diced
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Fresh cilantro, for garnish

1. Heat oil in a large, deep skillet; add onions and cook until translucent. Add tomatoes and garlic; cook until garlic begins to brown.

2. Add presoaked beans, beer, vegetable stock, cinnamon and chipotle peppers. Simmer for 1 hour or until beans are tender, adding more stock as necessary. Season with salt and pepper and garnish with fresh cilantro.

Nutrition Facts Per Serving: Calories: 321 calories Fat: 6g (1g saturated) % fat calories: 15 Cholesterol: 0mg Carbohydrate: 51g Protein: 16g

Green Rice

Serves 6 / Poblano peppers give this dish a richer flavor, but milder Anaheim chilis may be substituted. To roast poblanos, cut in half, place on baking sheet cut side down, and broil for 10 minutes or until mostly charred; place in a paper bag for 5 minutes. Steam will loosen skin for easy peeling.

2 poblano peppers, roasted, peeled, seeded and chopped
1 green bell pepper, chopped
4 cloves garlic
1 bunch cilantro leaves and tender stems
4 cups vegetable stock, divided
1 small white onion, diced
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 cups long-grain white rice
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Lime wedges, for garnish

1. In a food processor or blender, combine poblanos, bell pepper, garlic, cilantro and 2 cups vegetable stock; purée.

2. In a medium-large saucepan over medium heat, sauté onion in vegetable oil until translucent. Add rice and lightly fry until golden, about 5 minutes.

3. Add the puréed vegetables, remaining stock, salt and pepper; stir and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until done, about 25 minutes. Serve with lime wedges.

Nutrition Facts Per Serving: Calories: 289 calories Fat: 3g (1g saturated) % fat calories: 9 Cholesterol: 0mg Carbohydrate: 59g Protein: 6g

Red Snapper Veracruz

Serves 6 / The coastal cuisine of Veracruz exhibits a definite Mediterranean influence. This sauce complements virtually any white fish.

4 red snapper fillets (1-1/2 - 2 pounds total)
Juice of two limes
1 teaspoon oregano
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium white onion, chopped
6 cloves garlic, diced
4 medium tomatoes, chopped
1/2 cup sliced green olives
3 pickled jalapeños, diced
1 tablespoon capers
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
Lime wedges, for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 375º.

2. Place fillets in a baking pan. In a small bowl, mix the lime juice, oregano, and salt and pepper to taste; pour over fish.

3. In a skillet, heat olive oil and cook the onion until translucent. Add garlic and tomatoes; when these are tender, add the olives, jalapeños, capers, brown sugar, cinnamon, and cloves. Simmer for 10 minutes.

4. Bake the fish for approximately 15 minutes; pour vegetable sauce over fish and bake for another 15 minutes. Serve with lime wedges.

Nutrition Facts Per Serving: Calories: 203 calories Fat: 7g (1g saturated) % fat calories: 32 Cholesterol: 35mg Carbohydrate: 14g Protein: 21g

Fresh Squash with Peppers and Corn
Serves 6 / Versions of this summer dish are found throughout Mexico; this one hails from Oaxaca. It works well as a side dish but is also hearty enough to be a main dish.

2 small potatoes, chopped
6 ears fresh corn on the cob (or 1-1/2 - 2 pounds frozen corn kernels)
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 medium white onion, chopped
4 small zucchini or other summer squash, halved and sliced
2 poblano peppers, roasted, seeded and cut in 1/4-inch strips
6 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup vegetable stock
1 teaspoon dried oregano (or 1 tablespoon fresh)
1 teaspoon dried epazote (or 1 tablespoon fresh)
1/2 cup Mexican crema or sour cream
6 ounces queso fresco (or mild feta), crumbled
Organic corn tortillas

1. Bring a large pot of water to boil on the stovetop. Add potatoes and cook for 10-12 minutes.

2. Add corn on the cob or frozen corn kernels and cook an additional 6 minutes, or until corn is just tender. Drain. Remove kernels from the cob and set aside.

3. In a large skillet, heat butter and add onions. When onions are translucent, add potatoes, corn, zucchinis, poblanos and garlic. Cook for 10 minutes.

4. Add vegetable stock, oregano and epazote; bring to a simmer, then stir in the crema or sour cream and top with cheese.

5. Cover, turn heat to low and cook 5-10 minutes more, or until cheese melts. Serve with warm corn tortillas.

Nutrition Facts Per Serving: Calories: 302 calories Fat: 15g (9g saturated) % fat calories: 43 Cholesterol: 39mg Carbohydrate: 34g Protein: 11g

Sopa de Tlalpán

Serves 4 / This soup from Tlalpán, a suburb of Mexico City, is traditionally made with chicken, but the vegetarian version is light and delicious.

4 cups vegetable stock
1/2 dried chipotle chili, seeded and diced
1 large avocado
1 14-ounce can garbanzo beans, drained
5 scallions, diced
6 ounces queso fresco, cubed
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

1. In a medium saucepan, bring the stock and diced chili to a boil. Reduce heat.

2. Cut the avocado flesh into 1/2-inch pieces and add avocado, garbanzos and scallions to the broth. Heat gently. Just before serving, add the cubed cheese, and salt and pepper to taste.

Nutrition Facts Per Serving: Calories: 355 calories Fat: 18g (7g saturated) % fat calories: 45 Cholesterol: 30mg Carbohydrate: 32g Protein: 17g

Classic Mexican Flan

Serves 16 / This lighter version of the traditional Mexican custard is decadently rich and easy to make. Keep portions small; a little goes a long way.

1/2 cup sugar
1 can (14 ounces) nonfat sweetened condensed milk
1 cup 1 percent reduced-fat milk
3 whole eggs
1/2 cup egg substitute
1 tablespoon white rum with coconut (optional)
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1. In a small saucepan, melt sugar over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until sugar dissolves into a dark, caramel-colored liquid. Remove from heat and quickly pour into a 4-cup metal ring mold. Using potholders, quickly turn mold to coat bottom and sides with the caramel (caution: mold will become very hot). Cool.

2. Preheat oven to 325º. In a blender, combine condensed milk, reduced-fat milk, eggs, egg substitute and flavorings. Cover and blend until very smooth. Pour mixture into mold; put mold in a larger pan filled with water to a depth of 1/2 inch. Bake for 1 hour. Remove from oven and remove mold from water. Cool, cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours.

3. Loosen edges of mold with a knife or spatula. Cover mold with an inverted serving platter and turn over. Remove mold. Caramel will fall as a liquid sauce over the custard.

Nutrition Facts Per Serving: Calories: 70 calories Fat: 1g (0g saturated) % fat calories: 19 Cholesterol: 41mg Carbohydrate: 9g Protein: 4g Mitchell Clute is a writer, musician and avid home chef.